Wednesday, November 22, 2017

French and plant based - OUI !

Many meals with Erin
and Philip
Les Amantes du Marche - pumpkin quinoa
stew with cabbage salad
rolls and pesto dressing

OUI! you can eat completely plant based while traveling in France but you will not be experiencing the true French cuisine. Having language and custom as a challenge, we still managed to find delicious meals out and we made many ourselves at home, picnic or even traveling. One of my favorite parts of travel as I have mentioned before is searching for items in stores (here called Bio stores) or restaurants. With the internet it is easier and easier to find them.

La Fiancée du Désert - vegetarian plate
We were based in Pau, France for a total of 5 weeks with short side trips here and there (and our trip to Morocco in between) and so we got to know the culture and places that we liked. Our friends Erin and Philip were living a floor below and were great for helping us find what we like as well as many delicious meals shared with them in their contemporary apartment. Pau is a comfortable small walkable city. 


Eggplant and Artichoke salad at
Relais D'Alsace, Pau
Spa town of Loudenville in Pyrennes
We ate today at a favorite restaurant to celebrate my birthday a few days early - Les Amantes du Marche. We attempted several times before only to find them filled at lunch so reservations are definitely in order. Richard had the sample midday menu plate and I enjoyed a salad of beets and chestnuts along with pumpkin quinoa stew and cabbage rolls with pesto sauce. We also enjoyed a meal at La Fiancée du Désert, a Lebanese restaurant in Pau which also requires reservations. Twice we enjoyed a salad of eggplant and artichoke hearts at Relais D'Alsace Taverne, just downstairs from our apartment in Place Clemenceau.
We took several side trips during our stays in France. Off to the Pyrenees several times including a 
weekend in Loudenville where there was a spa. By asking questions I always managed to find 
an item that was plant-based, often a large salad. 
Olea Restaurant, Biarritz

Padrons in Bayonne
By train we traveled to Lourdes, Bayonne and Biarritz where we found several restaurants with vegan items on their menus.

And then there were our picnics and makeshift meals. With a little trip to a Bio store and a bandana as a placemat we are set to go wherever we are. To some it is a bottle of wine, cheese and bread and to us - rice cakes, hummus, carrots, fruit and treats.
Chestnuts roasting on the open fire.
Every afternoon in Place Clemenceau, Pau


Picnic in Parc Beaumont
Hummus, carrots, chips
and apple

Makeshift meal in Toulouse hotel,
on the way to Morocco
Tomato soup and endives

Sunday, November 5, 2017

Food memories from Morocco

First meal at Restaurant Marrakech
in Fez
Cafe Clock in the medina in Fez.
Typical salads served before
a meal.
We have just returned from 2 amazing weeks in Morocco and had the good fortune to travel to many beautiful places. I have already written about the details of our trip on our travel blog at: http://mexicotravel-susan-ricardo.blogspot.com and now am going to show mostly with pictures some of the food adventures. Morocco is a land of smells and tastes as well as color and sounds - a feast for all the senses. Eating plant based was not the common way of the day as most restaurants served meat of many forms but as I follow my intention, I was easily able to eat everyday and many memorable meals for sure. Since I do not eat wheat products the breakfasts were sometimes scarce but there was usually fruit including dates or figs and various jams and spreads that were enjoyed by Richard. I always have a little stash of nuts and fruit for these moments when the options are not suitable.

Breakfast in Chefchauen - pea soup
and apples. One of my favorite breakfasts
Here are how dates grow.
We often ate our big meal in the late afternoon and then ate some snacks for dinner which was the very local products of figs, apples, dates, almonds and of course, olives - all grown locally. We even managed to pick dates right off the trees as we walked through the oases.
Olive stand in the medina.
Lunch in Ouarzazate

Tagine dish
Tagine in Meknes
Tagines are the main food of Morocco and we were able to get vegan tagines in every restaurant that we went to. On Fridays the tradition is for families to gather for giant bowls of couscous with either meat or vegetables and so often restaurants will provide couscous on Fridays. We enjoyed several meals of vegetarian couscous, one served with figs and one with dates.
Cafe Sofia in Chefchauen
Soup, tagine and aubergine (eggplant)

Moroccan salad served to us
in a Berber cave in the desert
Last days in Marrakech at
Ayaso Concept Store
Lentils, avocado spread, soup and salad
Sitting in a Berber tent in the middle
of the Sahara desert drinking
mint tea
We would recommend this country to anyone who wishes to learn of another culture. The people are so very kind and friendly and always try to please. The custom no matter where we went when arriving anywhere - shop, hotel or restaurant is to sit down and enjoy a cup (glass) of mint tea (san o avec sucre). Needless to say, we enjoyed many glasses of tea.




Sunday, October 8, 2017

Four Delicious Days in Utrecht and Feist, Netherlands

In July, Sophie and I visited the Netherlands so that Sophie could give a paper at a conference at the University of Utrecht. We stayed at a lovely hotel, Figi Theater Hotel in Feist, which was a 20-minute easy bus ride from the University. I happily ate my way through these two cities. Years ago, when I traveled to the Netherlands, I recall most meals being centered around meat, cheese and bread. While it likely is possible to still eat this way in the Netherlands, I found these two cities to be enthusiastically vegan friendly.

1. Zeeiwier salad for lunch
Feist and Utrecht are very international with folks from many places in the world both visiting and living there. People go out of their way to be helpful and on the whole people in service professions are friendly and good-natured. Herein I share some highlights.

The grocery stores! From the regular grocery store to the Asian markets to the health food groceries the produce were fresh and plentiful and the packaged foods are well-labeled—often in several languages that I do not read. Nonetheless, I was able to find all sorts of breakfast and picnic foods in the grocery stores. At my first grocery store visit I was looking for a ready-made salad to eat in the room for lunch. I looked through several and found one that appeared to be free from meat, milk (melk), cheese (kaas), and whey (wei). It looked delicious and hearty with grain and greens and nuts. When I opened it and tasted it, I realized it was a seaweed salad! Somehow the word for seaweed (zeewier) was lost in translation. I added some avocado and spinach that I purchased separately and had a delicious and filling lunch.
2. Dizzying array of vegan foods
 In Zeist, I explored an Asian grocery called Ibuko: Food Toko Lunch which had food ingredients from all over Asia and right next door I visited what I would describe as a health food grocery called “de groene winkel”, which translates as “the green store” that had a dazzling array of vegan meat and cheese products as well as all sorts of other healthy food ingredients
3. In room breakfast picnic
(see photo 2). I tried a sliced vegan chorizo which was featured in a solo picnic lunch and breakfast the next morning for S and I.
(see photo 3). Sometimes the translations between Dutch and English come out humorously—as in “worst chorizo” (see photo 4).
4. 'worst chorizo'

5. tzatziki made with Alpro yogurt
A special mention about Alpro and Provamel (the all organic product line), products (also in the photos). I am sure that I have written about Alpro previously. They are a company in Belgium that makes outstanding dairy-free yogurts, puddings, creamers, etc. Even 25 and 30 years ago before I was vegan, I wasn’t much of a yogurt fan, and I can just tolerate some of the non-dairy yogurts of in the US now. With Alpro and Provamel, I am excited for a breakfast of yogurt and fruit and crazy for tzatziki made with unsweetened Alpro yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, green onion and lemon (see photo 5 from our visit with friends in Buxton, UK). 


For the first 3 nights, we ate “around the world” for dinner. On the first night we ate at an Chinese restaurant called Azie right next door to the Hotel Figi. While it took us a while to find vegetarian items on the menu (odd in a Chinese restaurant—even the vegetables section was dishes like “mixed vegetables with chicken.” After talking with the server a bit, we decided on a “special vegetarian mixed vegetable” dish and a version of Ma Po Tofu served with rice and a carafe of white wine. We enjoyed every bite. I was especially impressed with the tofu dish. It had lots of minced vegetables in it, it was mildly spicy and it used silken tofu in small pieces. Truly delectable.

On night two we read about restaurants in Zeist on the internet and decided on “Buddha” which served Nepalese and Indian style dishes in a handsome restaurant with prayer flags decorating the outside of the restaurant. We ordered a vegetable curry, dahl tarkam and a third dish of Nepali origin with black-eyed peas. They served us complimentary pappadum with tamarind sauce, a slaw-like salad and nan bread. Very tasty all around and both the slaw and the dahl reminded me of my travels in Nepal back in the early 80’s. In fact, I spent much of the meal regaling Sophie with stories from that trip.

6. Thai curry and eggplant dish in
restaurant Chang Siam
7. Som Tam salad
One the third day, Sophie gave her paper and went out for happy hour to share stories with some long time and new Classicist friends in Utrecht. When the gathering dispersed, we walked back towards our bus station and found a tiny Thai restaurant called, Chang Siam, that had an opening. Here we had another delicious and wholly plant-based meal. We ordered a tofu with garlic, chilis and basil. Som Tam (a green papaya salad) and green curry with tofu and vegetables (see photos 6 and 7) and enjoyed every last bite before hopping on the bus to head back to our stylish hotel room in Feist.


On the 4th day, Sophie’s conference ended at 1:00 so we met two friends from home who also had attended a conference (in Grongingen) and were now relaxing in Amsterdam. They took a train in from Amsterdam to visit with us and see a bit of Utrecht. We decided to visit a beautiful, large all volunteered tended garden in Maximapark called Vlinderhof. For a post-garden visit outing, I had searched happycow.net for possible interesting options and found a small brewery, called “Oproer Brouwerij” that serves an all plant-based menu. We all trekked for about 45 minutes down a busy Utrecht road in search of this charming spot in a warehouse. When we found it, it was like a dream for me because all of the dishes from appetizers to desserts were vegan and for the others because we had done a LOT of walking that afternoon.  

8. Eggplant with quinoa
9. Peach Melba
Because there were 4 of us we were able to try and share 5 of the 7 food items on the menu--ceasar salad, fried potatoes with a delicious yogurt dip, a fajita taco plate and a dish of aubergine packets over quinoa with rocket and two lovely sauces (see photo 8). Finally, we each enjoyed a portion of the peach melba dessert (see photo 9) which was delightful!

Our adventures continued in Amsterdam the next day, but I’ll not soon forget the delicious meals I had in Utrecht and Feist.


Saturday, September 30, 2017

Camino de Santiago - Portugal and Spain



Hummus served as Camino shell
at Malek Bistro in Santiago
I have lots to say about our two weeks on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago which took us from Porto, Portugal to Santiago, Spain. I managed to eat everyday (surprise) but sometimes it was not that exciting as there were not always good options.

Each day I packed a snack and when there was no option, I spread out my bandana and enjoyed a picnic of beans or nuts, rice or corn cakes and fruit. The main thing missing at restaurants for me was protein as breakfasts always included in hotels were cheese/ham and bread along with pastries, etc. Pilgrim meals in most restaurants included fish or meat as main courses or other non-plant dishes. Often restaurants in both Spain and Portugal were closed until 7:30 or 8:00 at night which was late for us perigrinos who were rising early to walk each day.
My favorite picnic - note dark chocolate
sugar free coated rice cakes - yum


Breakfast in Tui at Ideas Perigrinas
Muesli with fruit and nuts
However, I did enjoy the various surprise specialties that were made with love when I was able to explain what I would like. Especially popular was vegetable soup in Portugal using the large green leaves that we saw growing everywhere. 

Take a look at the many photos of specialties and I am now noting where I ate so that I can return again. 
Curried tofu and veggies at
Malak Bistro, Santiag

Boiled potatoes and greens
in traditional cafe in Mamed,
Portugal.

 
When we were nearing Padron, Spain I knew we were in the territory of pimientos de Padron - a favorite of our last camino and we enjoyed them wherever we were able to get them - peppers in spanish olive oil with salt.
 
Pimientos de Padron


Traditional Portuguese Veg Soup


Traditional Portuguese Vegetable Soup
  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
Ingredients
  • a dash of olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 1/2 onion, chopped
  • 1 leek white, chopped
  • 1 carrot, sliced
  • 1/2 courgette, cubed
  • 1/4 pumpkin, cubed
  • 1 potato, cubed
  • 1 litre vegetable stock
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 handfuls frozen spinach (or Portuguese cabbage if you can get some)
  • 3 tbsp. cooked chickpeas (I used jar chickpeas)
Preparation 
  1. Heat the oil in a pressure cooker* pot and sauté the garlic, onion and leek over medium heat until translucent.
  2. Add the carrot, courgette, pumpkin and potato and pour the stock over. Stir and season with salt and pepper to taste.
  3. Cover and pressure cook* it for around 10 minutes once full pressure was reached (this may vary according to your pressure cooker model). For regular cooking, cover, bring to a boil, turn the heat down and simmer till the vegetables are cooked, approximately 30 minutes should do.
  4. Once the vegetables are cooked, remove two ladles of vegetables chunks from the pot and set aside. Mix the rest with an immersion blender until a soft puree is formed.
  5. Put back in the vegetables chunks, add the spinach and chickpeas and cook for another 5 minutes.
  6. Serve hot and enjoy!
*Always follow your pressure cooker instructions and manage it with due care.

Picking grapes on the way
Zucchini pasta with veggies, Perola
Restaurant, Barcelos, Portugal


Harvest along the road

Thursday, September 14, 2017

Porto - another very veg friendly city

We've just spent the last week in the city of Porto, on the Douro River which opens to the ocean. Since it was a repeat of a visit in 2016 we already had some favorite places to visit and to eat. I was happy to note that there were a few new additions for this visit to go along with the repeats.

We had our first meal out at DaTerra, Baixa (https://www.daterra.pt/) which has an amazing vegetarian buffet for lunch and dinner everyday. There are different items at each meal and each day and often some changes during the hour we were there. It is best to go hungry as it is an all you can eat buffet and hard not to sample everything. Most everything is vegan and many items were also gluten free. There is another sister site in the beach town of Matosinhos which has similar fare. We walked the 10K to see the beach and have a meal there.

Vegan salad for 2 at Vegana
A new find this year was Vegana on Rua Famosa which was very near to where we lived. It is run by one woman who serves and makes each meal carefully (and slowly). We had a large salad for two that was filled with all kinds of veggies (lettuce, tofu, seeds, vegan cheese, tomatoes, orange, onions, cucumber, mushrooms and grated beets and carrots.)

Pad Thai Salad at Epoca
Epoca (http://epocaporto.com) was another good option run by a couple. We had fun talking to them and returned for a second visit.  First I had a pad thai salad with grated red cabbage. Richard had a chickpea hot dish. The second time they ran out of food as we got there late in the afternoon but they made us a delicious salad with what was available in their kitchen - kale, spiced chickpeas, nuts, mushrooms,cucumber, cauliflower dressed with fresh Portuguese olive oil.

Portobello burger at Bugo Art Burgers
While trying to visit a restaurant that was closed every time we attempted to go, we came upon a review of  Bugo Art Burgers on Rua de Camoes 131. I read that they would make whatever one asked for so we decided to try it and see. I asked about vegan options and they were happy to make something special  - a portobello burger for me with mango sauce topped with roasted red peppers and onion with a side of roasted rosemary potatoes.

Our experience, wherever we went was that folks were not put off at all by the word vegan and were kind and considerate to offer options. (Of course we were not going to the traditional Portuguese meat based restaurants).

Now we are off to our Camino to Santiago from Porto to Santiago, Spain and I will surely write about what offerings we find on that route.

Thursday, September 7, 2017

England - super veg friendly

We are on the second leg of this European adventure and just wrapping up out time in Buxton, England with our great friends (more like family) - Dan, Fiona, Aidan and Will. Along with plenty of adventures we have eaten up a storm. I was happy to find delicious vegan, gluten-free options in every place we went, including very off the beaten track spots in the middle of hills and dales of green pastures.


Some of the highlights included our very favorite right here in Buxton called "The Hydro" (www.thehydrocafe.com). Here we met the owner Sammie who goes out of his way to please every palate. If we stayed just a bit longer we would have tried his vegan, gluten free "Fish and Chips" which will be on his new upcoming menu. We also ate at Simply Thai and Ithaca Greek Taverna in Buxton and were pleased with their options as well.
Button Warehouse in Macclesfield

Turmeric latte - health in a cup
Our travels around included a visit to Macclesfield where we ate at The Button Warehouse and to Manchester with a return visit to a favorite from last year - The Earth Cafe.
Raw Passion Fruit and
Mango Cheescake at Earth Cafe

Liverpool was a new city for us and we ate at the thirty year old vegetarian restaurant - The Egg Cafe. This full and nutritious meal was chickpea and potato dahl, coleslaw and carrot salad.
The Egg Cafe, Liverpool
Hassop Station - hummus and grilled veggies

Most exciting was while walking an old railroad path converted to a walking path called the Monsal Trail which passes through many old railroad tunnels. All of a sudden one comes upon the Hassop Station where there was a large restaurant with many vegetarian options. I had one of the best meals there, perhaps because we had just walked 5 miles and had 5 to go.

So, my friends, when traveling in England you will find many options of plant-based food.