Sunday, October 8, 2017

Four Delicious Days in Utrecht and Feist, Netherlands

In July, Sophie and I visited the Netherlands so that Sophie could give a paper at a conference at the University of Utrecht. We stayed at a lovely hotel, Figi Theater Hotel in Feist, which was a 20-minute easy bus ride from the University. I happily ate my way through these two cities. Years ago, when I traveled to the Netherlands, I recall most meals being centered around meat, cheese and bread. While it likely is possible to still eat this way in the Netherlands, I found these two cities to be enthusiastically vegan friendly.

1. Zeeiwier salad for lunch
Feist and Utrecht are very international with folks from many places in the world both visiting and living there. People go out of their way to be helpful and on the whole people in service professions are friendly and good-natured. Herein I share some highlights.

The grocery stores! From the regular grocery store to the Asian markets to the health food groceries the produce were fresh and plentiful and the packaged foods are well-labeled—often in several languages that I do not read. Nonetheless, I was able to find all sorts of breakfast and picnic foods in the grocery stores. At my first grocery store visit I was looking for a ready-made salad to eat in the room for lunch. I looked through several and found one that appeared to be free from meat, milk (melk), cheese (kaas), and whey (wei). It looked delicious and hearty with grain and greens and nuts. When I opened it and tasted it, I realized it was a seaweed salad! Somehow the word for seaweed (zeewier) was lost in translation. I added some avocado and spinach that I purchased separately and had a delicious and filling lunch.
2. Dizzying array of vegan foods
 In Zeist, I explored an Asian grocery called Ibuko: Food Toko Lunch which had food ingredients from all over Asia and right next door I visited what I would describe as a health food grocery called “de groene winkel”, which translates as “the green store” that had a dazzling array of vegan meat and cheese products as well as all sorts of other healthy food ingredients
3. In room breakfast picnic
(see photo 2). I tried a sliced vegan chorizo which was featured in a solo picnic lunch and breakfast the next morning for S and I.
(see photo 3). Sometimes the translations between Dutch and English come out humorously—as in “worst chorizo” (see photo 4).
4. 'worst chorizo'

5. tzatziki made with Alpro yogurt
A special mention about Alpro and Provamel (the all organic product line), products (also in the photos). I am sure that I have written about Alpro previously. They are a company in Belgium that makes outstanding dairy-free yogurts, puddings, creamers, etc. Even 25 and 30 years ago before I was vegan, I wasn’t much of a yogurt fan, and I can just tolerate some of the non-dairy yogurts of in the US now. With Alpro and Provamel, I am excited for a breakfast of yogurt and fruit and crazy for tzatziki made with unsweetened Alpro yogurt, cucumbers, garlic, green onion and lemon (see photo 5 from our visit with friends in Buxton, UK). 


For the first 3 nights, we ate “around the world” for dinner. On the first night we ate at an Chinese restaurant called Azie right next door to the Hotel Figi. While it took us a while to find vegetarian items on the menu (odd in a Chinese restaurant—even the vegetables section was dishes like “mixed vegetables with chicken.” After talking with the server a bit, we decided on a “special vegetarian mixed vegetable” dish and a version of Ma Po Tofu served with rice and a carafe of white wine. We enjoyed every bite. I was especially impressed with the tofu dish. It had lots of minced vegetables in it, it was mildly spicy and it used silken tofu in small pieces. Truly delectable.

On night two we read about restaurants in Zeist on the internet and decided on “Buddha” which served Nepalese and Indian style dishes in a handsome restaurant with prayer flags decorating the outside of the restaurant. We ordered a vegetable curry, dahl tarkam and a third dish of Nepali origin with black-eyed peas. They served us complimentary pappadum with tamarind sauce, a slaw-like salad and nan bread. Very tasty all around and both the slaw and the dahl reminded me of my travels in Nepal back in the early 80’s. In fact, I spent much of the meal regaling Sophie with stories from that trip.

6. Thai curry and eggplant dish in
restaurant Chang Siam
7. Som Tam salad
One the third day, Sophie gave her paper and went out for happy hour to share stories with some long time and new Classicist friends in Utrecht. When the gathering dispersed, we walked back towards our bus station and found a tiny Thai restaurant called, Chang Siam, that had an opening. Here we had another delicious and wholly plant-based meal. We ordered a tofu with garlic, chilis and basil. Som Tam (a green papaya salad) and green curry with tofu and vegetables (see photos 6 and 7) and enjoyed every last bite before hopping on the bus to head back to our stylish hotel room in Feist.


On the 4th day, Sophie’s conference ended at 1:00 so we met two friends from home who also had attended a conference (in Grongingen) and were now relaxing in Amsterdam. They took a train in from Amsterdam to visit with us and see a bit of Utrecht. We decided to visit a beautiful, large all volunteered tended garden in Maximapark called Vlinderhof. For a post-garden visit outing, I had searched happycow.net for possible interesting options and found a small brewery, called “Oproer Brouwerij” that serves an all plant-based menu. We all trekked for about 45 minutes down a busy Utrecht road in search of this charming spot in a warehouse. When we found it, it was like a dream for me because all of the dishes from appetizers to desserts were vegan and for the others because we had done a LOT of walking that afternoon.  

8. Eggplant with quinoa
9. Peach Melba
Because there were 4 of us we were able to try and share 5 of the 7 food items on the menu--ceasar salad, fried potatoes with a delicious yogurt dip, a fajita taco plate and a dish of aubergine packets over quinoa with rocket and two lovely sauces (see photo 8). Finally, we each enjoyed a portion of the peach melba dessert (see photo 9) which was delightful!

Our adventures continued in Amsterdam the next day, but I’ll not soon forget the delicious meals I had in Utrecht and Feist.


Saturday, September 30, 2017

Camino de Santiago - Portugal and Spain



Hummus served as Camino shell
at Malek Bistro in Santiago
I have lots to say about our two weeks on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago which took us from Porto, Portugal to Santiago, Spain. I managed to eat everyday (surprise) but sometimes it was not that exciting as there were not always good options.

Each day I packed a snack and when there was no option, I spread out my bandana and enjoyed a picnic of beans or nuts, rice or corn cakes and fruit. The main thing missing at restaurants for me was protein as breakfasts always included in hotels were cheese/ham and bread along with pastries, etc. Pilgrim meals in most restaurants included fish or meat as main courses or other non-plant dishes. Often restaurants in both Spain and Portugal were closed until 7:30 or 8:00 at night which was late for us perigrinos who were rising early to walk each day.
My favorite picnic - note dark chocolate
sugar free coated rice cakes - yum


Breakfast in Tui at Ideas Perigrinas
Muesli with fruit and nuts
However, I did enjoy the various surprise specialties that were made with love when I was able to explain what I would like. Especially popular was vegetable soup in Portugal using the large green leaves that we saw growing everywhere. 

Take a look at the many photos of specialties and I am now noting where I ate so that I can return again. 
Curried tofu and veggies at
Malak Bistro, Santiag

Boiled potatoes and greens
in traditional cafe in Mamed,
Portugal.

 
When we were nearing Padron, Spain I knew we were in the territory of pimientos de Padron - a favorite of our last camino and we enjoyed them wherever we were able to get them - peppers in spanish olive oil with salt.
 
Pimientos de Padron


Traditional Portuguese Veg Soup


Traditional Portuguese Vegetable Soup
  • Servings: 4
  • Difficulty: easy
Ingredients
  • a dash of olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, chopped
  • 1/2 onion, chopped
  • 1 leek white, chopped
  • 1 carrot, sliced
  • 1/2 courgette, cubed
  • 1/4 pumpkin, cubed
  • 1 potato, cubed
  • 1 litre vegetable stock
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 2 handfuls frozen spinach (or Portuguese cabbage if you can get some)
  • 3 tbsp. cooked chickpeas (I used jar chickpeas)
Preparation 
  1. Heat the oil in a pressure cooker* pot and sauté the garlic, onion and leek over medium heat until translucent.
  2. Add the carrot, courgette, pumpkin and potato and pour the stock over. Stir and season with salt and pepper to taste.
  3. Cover and pressure cook* it for around 10 minutes once full pressure was reached (this may vary according to your pressure cooker model). For regular cooking, cover, bring to a boil, turn the heat down and simmer till the vegetables are cooked, approximately 30 minutes should do.
  4. Once the vegetables are cooked, remove two ladles of vegetables chunks from the pot and set aside. Mix the rest with an immersion blender until a soft puree is formed.
  5. Put back in the vegetables chunks, add the spinach and chickpeas and cook for another 5 minutes.
  6. Serve hot and enjoy!
*Always follow your pressure cooker instructions and manage it with due care.

Picking grapes on the way
Zucchini pasta with veggies, Perola
Restaurant, Barcelos, Portugal


Harvest along the road

Thursday, September 14, 2017

Porto - another very veg friendly city

We've just spent the last week in the city of Porto, on the Douro River which opens to the ocean. Since it was a repeat of a visit in 2016 we already had some favorite places to visit and to eat. I was happy to note that there were a few new additions for this visit to go along with the repeats.

We had our first meal out at DaTerra, Baixa (https://www.daterra.pt/) which has an amazing vegetarian buffet for lunch and dinner everyday. There are different items at each meal and each day and often some changes during the hour we were there. It is best to go hungry as it is an all you can eat buffet and hard not to sample everything. Most everything is vegan and many items were also gluten free. There is another sister site in the beach town of Matosinhos which has similar fare. We walked the 10K to see the beach and have a meal there.

Vegan salad for 2 at Vegana
A new find this year was Vegana on Rua Famosa which was very near to where we lived. It is run by one woman who serves and makes each meal carefully (and slowly). We had a large salad for two that was filled with all kinds of veggies (lettuce, tofu, seeds, vegan cheese, tomatoes, orange, onions, cucumber, mushrooms and grated beets and carrots.)

Pad Thai Salad at Epoca
Epoca (http://epocaporto.com) was another good option run by a couple. We had fun talking to them and returned for a second visit.  First I had a pad thai salad with grated red cabbage. Richard had a chickpea hot dish. The second time they ran out of food as we got there late in the afternoon but they made us a delicious salad with what was available in their kitchen - kale, spiced chickpeas, nuts, mushrooms,cucumber, cauliflower dressed with fresh Portuguese olive oil.

Portobello burger at Bugo Art Burgers
While trying to visit a restaurant that was closed every time we attempted to go, we came upon a review of  Bugo Art Burgers on Rua de Camoes 131. I read that they would make whatever one asked for so we decided to try it and see. I asked about vegan options and they were happy to make something special  - a portobello burger for me with mango sauce topped with roasted red peppers and onion with a side of roasted rosemary potatoes.

Our experience, wherever we went was that folks were not put off at all by the word vegan and were kind and considerate to offer options. (Of course we were not going to the traditional Portuguese meat based restaurants).

Now we are off to our Camino to Santiago from Porto to Santiago, Spain and I will surely write about what offerings we find on that route.

Thursday, September 7, 2017

England - super veg friendly

We are on the second leg of this European adventure and just wrapping up out time in Buxton, England with our great friends (more like family) - Dan, Fiona, Aidan and Will. Along with plenty of adventures we have eaten up a storm. I was happy to find delicious vegan, gluten-free options in every place we went, including very off the beaten track spots in the middle of hills and dales of green pastures.


Some of the highlights included our very favorite right here in Buxton called "The Hydro" (www.thehydrocafe.com). Here we met the owner Sammie who goes out of his way to please every palate. If we stayed just a bit longer we would have tried his vegan, gluten free "Fish and Chips" which will be on his new upcoming menu. We also ate at Simply Thai and Ithaca Greek Taverna in Buxton and were pleased with their options as well.
Button Warehouse in Macclesfield

Turmeric latte - health in a cup
Our travels around included a visit to Macclesfield where we ate at The Button Warehouse and to Manchester with a return visit to a favorite from last year - The Earth Cafe.
Raw Passion Fruit and
Mango Cheescake at Earth Cafe

Liverpool was a new city for us and we ate at the thirty year old vegetarian restaurant - The Egg Cafe. This full and nutritious meal was chickpea and potato dahl, coleslaw and carrot salad.
The Egg Cafe, Liverpool
Hassop Station - hummus and grilled veggies

Most exciting was while walking an old railroad path converted to a walking path called the Monsal Trail which passes through many old railroad tunnels. All of a sudden one comes upon the Hassop Station where there was a large restaurant with many vegetarian options. I had one of the best meals there, perhaps because we had just walked 5 miles and had 5 to go.

So, my friends, when traveling in England you will find many options of plant-based food.

Sunday, August 27, 2017

Berlin - the most vegan friendly city in Europe

Delicious fruit pop of date and almond
one of many fun signs
I had heard that Berlin was the city of plant based eating and sure enough, this is what I discovered. We have been here for ten days and it would take many more to visit the many restaurants and shops that carry all or mostly all vegan foods. People always ask me if I feel deprived when traveling and not experiencing all of the foods of the culture I am visiting. My answer is always that I choose to eat this way and therefore never feel deprived but here in Berlin I partook in all the culture as here they understand what being plant-based is all about. Every restaurant marks its items as vegan (as well as gluten free) and has ingredient lists posted to help those with allergies. One does not have to ask so many questions and feel out of place as is common in many other places. Berlin is a young and healthy city with people walking and biking everywhere.

Let's go to a few of my favorite places.
Favorite breakfast
Breakfast most days was at a small porridge shop. We kept thinking we should go elsewhere but it was too delicious to pass up and every 7 bowls bought us a free one so we managed to get 2 free during our visit. It is in the area of Berlin called Prenzlauer Berg where we lived. The restaurant is Haferkater on Eberswaldler Strasse. The new world for me with my Iphone and the ability to look up whatever I want whenever I want has changed our travel, no longer necessary to find these places in a guide book or on a computer and make detailed notes as well as hours over a map.
The Bowl - Beet falafel balls on left and
tempeh, tofu bowl on the right
Our days included many tours and visits in and outside the city. For a detailed travelogue you can visit my travel blog at: http://mexicotravel-susan-ricardo.blogspot.com   Most days we ate at least one meal in a restaurant but having a kitchen in our airbnb was good too. There are many lovely veggie stores with wonderful produce.

Superfoods - carrot and zucchini strings
with nuts, seeds, quinoa and veggies


Favorite restaurants included "The Bowl" above the large store Veganz at Warschauer Strasse 33. The orange drink pictured above is tumeric and almond milk and was a favorite of mine. There are also many Thai, Vietnamese, Asian and Indian restaurants all with dedicated menus to plant based eaters. Another favorite was Superfoods Berlin with several locations and a shop for take out items.

At Pizzare
A great option especially for me who rarely finds gluten free pizza was Pizzare which has a full several page vegan menu. The pizza options were many and we went twice to enjoy several different toppings on each pizza. The vegan cheeze was delicious as well. On our last night in town we went with Tom to his favorite veg restaurant - Chay Village, with Vietnamese vegetarian cuisine oNiederbarnimstrasse 4 and we enjoyed three different entrees from their varied and large menu. 
My mother's German style
potato salad with oil and vinegar

We did two different boat trips. One was a traditional boat tour of the Spree river running through the city of Berlin and even there on the menu was a vegan item. I had the delicious potato salad that my German mother made that was a highlight of every family party - yummmm. We also went on a boat canal trip in Spreewald and afterwards ordered a lovely plate of vegetables and potato with the traditional linseed oil that is still produced in the area along with all types of pickles.
Lunch after the boat ride in Spreewald

As luck would have it, we were here for the 3 day Vegan Sommerfest in the large outdoor Alexanderplatz in the center of town. It was packed with people enjoying the food and information presented at the many vendors. Most of the speakers were in German so we did not attend them but I was happy to be among so many of "my people" and to witness this growing worldwide movement.
Veganes Sommerfest Berlin
At the Sommerfest

We will be traveling for another two months so you can look forward to posts from many other country. Thanks for traveling with us.

Friday, July 21, 2017

Traveling in Chania, Crete, Greece with Amy

While in Chania, Crete, Greece in June I had the great pleasure of discovering two vegetarian restaurants—one new and one new to me that has been around for 8 or 9 years—both delicious. Vegetarian restaurants that offer vegan options feel surprisingly like an oasis in a country known for its healthy cuisine. Although plant food is readily accessible here, it is very often mixed or topped with cheese, yogurt or butter. Even bread and dry pasta which is often simple plant ingredients fairly often have some milk or yogurt added in the making.

Fava dip or Santorini fava (1)
We rented a lovely two story home on the east end of the harbor. When we arrived at late lunch time, we put our stuff down and headed down the block to the sea, took in the view and the sea air and turned west to head toward the central harbor. The coastline in Chania is organized in a series of bowl shaped harbors with either natural or man made edges to each bowl. As we came to the edge of the first of these we spotted To Stachi. The hand painted sign read, “organic” and “vegetarian.” I was immediately drawn to the place and a bit incredulous that we would happen on vegetarian restaurant on our first e
xplore of the trip.

Aubergine and dolmades (2)
As we settled into a table on the sidewalk, the chef came out to tell us about all of the dishes served that day. I asked about which ones were vegan and was surprised to learn how many of their mostly traditional Greek dishes were. We ordered fava dip, a roasted aubergine dish and spinach pie. The waitperson suggested with get the hummus instead of the fava as “you can get that anywhere,” but I love it and was happy with the choice. Although it is called fava dip and sometimes Santorini fava, it is essentially pureed split peas, not fava beans. To Stachi’s version came with raw onions and small dried olives (see photo 1). The spinach pie was a real treat because spinach pie in most places has cheese in it and it is often made with butter as well as olive oil. Sometimes the filo or other dough is made with milk in it. The aubergine dish was beautiful, unusual and delicious topped with balsamic “crème”, pine nuts and raisins and served with two dolmades (see photo 2).
Vegan Apple Cake (3)
They brought us a taste of their yummy (still warm) hummus made with avocado and tahini. As is the tradition in much of Greece, they brought a complementary dessert. Delightfully, it was a vegan apple cake and very tasty (see photo 3). A few days later we returned for their vegan moussaka and a lentil and rice soup. Both also delicious.

After finding To Stachi, I decided to check Happy Cow (happycow.net) to see if there were others nearby. Remarkably there was one more completely vegetarian just about 10 miles out of the center of town. Using other restaurant search engines, there are lots of restaurants listed as vegetarian friendly, but as mentioned above these can be tricky for people choosing to eat only foods from plant sources.

Old House Tavern (4)
The Old House Tavern is a breakfast and lunch place that is associated with the Sea Shell Apartments in Pyrgos Psilonerou (see photo 4). The dining room is right on the main road through this little beach town tucked between two seaside towns, Maleme and Gerani. The older stone building with very thick walls has been refurbished and it is light and cool inside even when the weather is it is warm outside. I was so excited about the menu that the two of us ordered 4 dishes—the tahini salad, the chickpeas with coconut sauce, the hummus and falafel plate (see photo 5) and a special dish for the day called vegetable with Chinese noodles.
Hummus and Falafel Plate (5)
All 4 were tasty. I loved the salad which featured pomegranate seeds, nuts, cucumber, greens, sweet cherry tomatoes and a slightly sweet tahini dressing. (see photo 6) The chickpea dish was a coconut curry with bright flavors served over rice (see photo 7). The Chinese noodles dish was sautéed slivered vegetables (peppers, corn, eggplant, and onion) tossed with ramen-style noodles (see photo 8). Deliciously salty and filling. We ended up taking home about half of the curry and the noodle dish and incorporated them into later meals. The complimentary dessert was lovely watermelon and cherries served with a shot glass of coffee liqueur. In all a real treat.
Tahini Salad (6) 

Chinese Noodles (8)
 
Chickpeas and Coconut Sauce (7) 

All this to say, if you find yourself in Chania, I highly recommend visiting these two excellent establishments. 

Sunday, July 2, 2017

Two Superb Vegan Restaurant Reports

Sweet potato fries at Forever Vegan
The vagabond travelers have returned to the USA after many months in Mexico. We spent several days in Mexico City in La Roma (neighborhood) where we returned to one of our favorite vegan restaurants - "Forever Vegan". (https://www.forevervegano.com/) In fact we went 3 days in a row because there were several items to try. Though I love cooking, I am thrilled when I find a restaurant where I do not have to ask so many questions and where people are glad to be providing plants to the public. This was my favorite dish....sweet potato fries with cashew cream dressing.

Living Burrito - wrapped in collard green
beans, cauliflower rice, guacamole, cashew sour cream


Manicotti with zucchini noodle and
cashew ricotta cheese
One of the great things that makes traveling fun, even frequenting the same places more than once is the new restaurants that appear from time to time. In our travels I see that there is an increasing interest in healthier plant based food. 
Tomatico Tart - almond tart with veggies
and cashew mascarpone cream
Now we are back in our hometown area - Carrboro/Chapel Hill, NC. I say hometown because it is where we have a home and community even though we haven't lived here for close to 8 years. Catching up with friends is our greatest pastime and this week we had two chances to try "Living Kitchen" in Chapel Hill. What a treat, and we need to return to try a few more items on the menu. http://livingkitchen.com/    

Each night we shared the tiramisu - yummmmmm.
I have taken several photos to help myself remember these combinations and to share them with you. I would recommend this restaurant to everyone, plant based or not.

Rawco Taco with walnut - almond meat,
avocado, etc.
Pad Thai with zucchini and sweet
potato noodles


Tiramisu - layers of almond-hazelnut crumble,
 cacao and vanilla cashew cream